Natural wine has taken the wine world by storm in recent years, but its roots go back much further. Over the past five decades, a handful of visionary winemakers have championed a return to traditional, low-intervention winemaking practices, paving the way for the natural wine movement we know today.
The Godfathers of Natural Wine
1. Jules Chauvet
No discussion of natural wine can begin without mentioning Jules Chauvet. Chauvet, a wine négociant from Beaujolais, is often called the "godfather of natural wine."
Key contributions:
- Pioneered techniques for making wine without added sulfites
- Conducted extensive research on carbonic maceration
- Inspired a generation of natural winemakers in Beaujolais and beyond
2. Marcel Lapierre
Marcel Lapierre, one of Chauvet's disciples, took natural winemaking principles and applied them on a larger scale in Morgon, Beaujolais. His wines gained international recognition, helping to legitimize the natural wine movement.
Key contributions:
- Demonstrated that natural wines could be both high-quality and commercially viable
- Helped establish the "Gang of Four" in Beaujolais, a group of winemakers dedicated to natural methods
- Inspired his son Mathieu, who continues his legacy today
The Revolutionaries of the 1970s and 1980s
3. Nicolas Joly
While not strictly a "natural" winemaker, Nicolas Joly's advocacy for biodynamic viticulture has hugely influenced the natural wine world. His Coulée de Serrant vineyard in the Loire Valley has been a beacon for biodynamic and natural winemaking since the 1980s.
Key contributions:
- Popularized biodynamic viticulture in France and beyond
- Authored influential books on biodynamic wine production
- Demonstrated the potential for terroir expression in biodynamic and natural wines
4. Stanko Radikon
In the 1990s, Stanko Radikon in Friuli, Italy, began experimenting with extended skin contact for white wines, reviving an ancient Georgian tradition. His "orange wines" have become a cornerstone of the natural wine movement.
Key contributions:
Popularized orange wines, inspiring countless imitators worldwide
Advocated for traditional large-format aging vessels
Demonstrated the age-worthiness of natural and orange wines
The 1990s Innovators
5. Thierry Puzelat
Thierry Puzelat of Clos du Tue-Bœuf in the Loire Valley began converting to organic viticulture in the 1990s and has since become one of the most respected natural winemakers in France.
Key contributions:
- Experimented with lesser-known Loire Valley grape varieties
- Advocated for minimal intervention in the cellar
- Mentored many young natural winemakers
6. Frank Cornelissen
Frank Cornelissen began making wine on Sicily's Mount Etna in 2001, quickly gaining attention for his uncompromising approach to natural winemaking.
Key contributions:
- Practices an extreme form of non-interventionist winemaking (now abandoned)
- Brought attention to the unique terroir of Mount Etna
- Challenged conventional notions of what wine should be
The New Millennium Pioneers
8. Jura Winemakers
The Jura region in eastern France has become a hotbed of natural winemaking in the 21st century. Producers like Jean-François Ganevat, Pierre Overnoy, and Alice Bouvot have brought international attention to this once-obscure region.
Key contributions:
- Revived traditional Jura styles like vin jaune and macvin
- Demonstrated the potential for natural winemaking in a marginal climate
- Inspired a new generation of winemakers to explore forgotten regions and varieties
The Mavericks
9. Joško Gravner
Joško Gravner in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy, has been a major influence in the natural wine world since the 1990s. His journey from modern winemaking techniques back to ancient methods has inspired many.
Key contributions:
- Reintroduced clay amphorae for fermentation and aging
- Championed extended maceration for white wines
- Demonstrated the potential for "orange" wines to age gracefully
10. Patrick Sullivan
Representing the new wave of natural winemakers in the New World, Patrick Sullivan in Australia has gained a cult following for his vibrant, expressive wines.
Key contributions:
- Showcased the potential for natural winemaking in Australia
- Experimented with unconventional blends and winemaking techniques
- Brought a playful, accessible approach to natural wine
Conclusion
These influential producers represent just a fraction of the many winemakers who have contributed to the natural wine movement over the past 50 years. From the philosophical foundations laid by Jules Chauvet to the global reach of today's natural wine fairs, the movement has come a long way.
What unites these diverse winemakers is a commitment to low-intervention practices, respect for terroir, and a desire to make wines that are alive, expressive, and true to their origins. As we look to the future, it's clear that the influence of these pioneers will continue to shape the world of wine for years to come.
Whether you're a seasoned natural wine enthusiast or just beginning to explore this exciting category, seeking out wines from these influential producers is a great way to deepen your understanding and appreciation of natural wine. Remember, the world of natural wine is vast and diverse – there's always something new to discover!
