Cirelli Montepulciano 2023

Francesco Cirelli's path to winemaking began with childhood memories of visiting his grandparents in the Abruzzo countryside. Despite earning a business degree and building a successful career as an economist, those memories drew him back to the land. In 2003, he and his wife Michela purchased a farm near the ancient hilltop town of Atri, establishing what would become Agricola Cirelli.

The 22-hectare estate sits within the Riserva Naturale Calanchi di Atri, a WWF-protected nature reserve characterized by dramatic clay badlands. Only 6 hectares are planted to vines—the remainder supports olive groves, wheat fields, barley, figs, aromatic herbs, vegetables, and free-range livestock including geese used for natural weed control in the vineyards. This biodiversity reflects Cirelli's philosophy of farming as a complete, self-sustaining ecosystem.

Organic certification came in 2006, just three years after founding. The estate achieved biodynamic certification in 2021, though Francesco had been incorporating biodynamic practices for years. Yields remain deliberately low—around 40-45 quintals per hectare, less than one-third of appellation limits—to achieve concentration and character.

In the cellar, Cirelli works without oak, using neutral vessels exclusively: stainless steel tanks for his classic line and custom-designed amphorae for his reserve wines. The amphorae are produced by an artisan in Impruneta, Florence, and feature stainless steel lids to control oxidation during fermentation. All fermentations occur spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, and wines are bottled without fining or filtration.

The portfolio divides into two lines: La Collina Biologica (screwcap-closed, immediately approachable wines) and the Anfora line (amphora-aged wines of greater depth and complexity). Francesco describes his winemaking as creating "an antidote to sadness, a balm for old wounds."

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Abruzzo stretches along Italy's central Adriatic coast, bounded by the sea to the east and the Apennine Mountains—including the Gran Sasso massif—to the west. This geographic compression creates remarkable diversity within a narrow corridor, with vineyard elevations ranging from near sea level to over 500 meters within short distances. The region's viticultural history extends to Roman times, though quality-focused production is a more recent development.

The dominant red variety is Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (distinct from Tuscany's Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which uses Sangiovese). This thick-skinned grape thrives in the region's clay and limestone soils, producing deeply colored wines with dark fruit character and structured tannins. Trebbiano d'Abruzzo leads white wine production, while Pecorino and Passerina have gained recognition as distinctive indigenous alternatives.

Abruzzo's climate benefits from both maritime and mountain influences. The Adriatic moderates summer heat and contributes breezes that help grapes retain acidity, while the Apennines provide cooling air drainage and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions favor organic viticulture—reduced humidity means lower disease pressure and less need for chemical intervention.

The region divides into several wine zones. Colline Teramane, where Agricola Cirelli is located, occupies the northern hills near Teramo province, earning DOCG status for its Montepulciano. Coastal areas around Pescara and Chieti produce larger volumes, while mountainous zones near L'Aquila yield more structured wines.

Abruzzo has transformed since the 1990s from quantity-focused production toward quality and terroir expression. Natural winemaking has flourished here, with producers like Francesco Cirelli leading a movement that emphasizes indigenous yeasts, minimal additives, and authentic regional character over commercial polish.

Explore Abruzzo natural wines and Italian organic wines.