What is Grower Champagne?

Grower Champagne is Champagne made by the grower who farmed the grapes, rather than by a house that buys them. Two letters in the fine print tell you which one you are holding: RM for a grower, NM for a house. Both make it by the same method.

A house can buy grapes from across the region and blend them to keep a consistent style. A grower can only use grapes from their own vineyards, so the wine shows those vineyards and the year they were picked.

RM in the fine printRécoltant-manipulant: the grower who farmed the grapes also made the wine
Their own parcels onlyGrapes only from the producer’s own vineyards, pressed on their premises
Often one villageMany growers farm in and around the village where they live
Small quantitiesA grower can only bottle what their own vineyards produce
A bottle of Veuve Fourny & Fils Brut 1er Cru Les Grands Terroirs, from Vertus
One producer, start to finishThe same family farms the vines, makes the wine and sets the dosage
Dosage varies widelyFrom 0 to 9 grams per liter across the growers we carry
Growers own most of the vinesNearly 90% of the vineyard area, per the Comité Champagne
Houses ship most bottlesMore than two thirds of all Champagne, per the Comité Champagne
Pictured: Veuve Fourny & Fils Brut 1er Cru Les Grands Terroirs, a family domaine in Vertus since 1856

The two letters on every Champagne label

Every bottle of Champagne must carry a professional registration number, and in front of it sit two letters that say what kind of producer made it. They are printed small, often along the bottom edge of the front label or on the back.

Scroll the table sideways to see both columns

Code What it means
RM Récoltant-manipulant. A grower who makes and sells Champagne from grapes from their own vineyards, pressed on their own premises. This is grower Champagne.
NM Négociant-manipulant. A house that buys grapes, must or wine and makes Champagne from them under its own label. Small producers can be NM too.
CM Coopérative de manipulation. A cooperative that makes Champagne from its members’ grapes and sells it.
RC Récoltant-coopérateur. A cooperative member who sells Champagne made by the cooperative under their own label.
SR Société de récoltants. A company formed by growers to make Champagne from their grapes.
ND Négociant-distributeur. A merchant distributor that buys finished bottles and sells them under its own label.
MA Marque d’acheteur. A buyer’s own brand, such as a store brand, made by another producer.
Where to find the code on a bottle

Look along the very bottom of the front label, or on the back, for something like RM 812 345 in type smaller than everything else. It is required on every label.

RM tells you where the grapes came from. It does not rate the wine.

What differs between a grower and a house

Both follow the same appellation rules: whole bunches to the press, a second fermentation in the bottle, aging on the lees, then disgorgement. They differ in where the grapes come from and who makes the decisions.

Scroll the table sideways to see both columns

  Grower (RM) House (NM)
Where the fruit comes from Parcels the producer owns and farms Bought from growers, often across the region
Geographic spread Often one village and its neighbors Can span the whole appellation
What the wine is for Showing a particular place in a particular year Holding a house style steady from year to year
Who decides One person or family, from pruning to dosage A cellar master working to a brief
Volume Limited by how much land the family farms Scaled by how much fruit can be bought
Consistency Changes with the vintage Blended for a consistent house style

Blending many parcels and several vintages into one consistent style takes skill. A grower’s wine shows fewer vineyards and one producer’s choices.

What grower Champagne tastes like

Grower Champagne has no single style. These four notes come up most often across the grower Champagnes we carry.

Brioche Brioche Years on the lees. Several of ours age well past the 15-month minimum
Pear Pear Orchard fruit. Meunier, in several of our grower blends, gives supple, fruity wines
Lemon peel Lemon peel The acidity, which shows more when the dosage is low
Flint Flint Struck match and wet stone, a note we log often in these bottles
The dosage varies from grower to grower
Each grower sets their own dosage, and the range on our shelf runs from 0 grams per liter at Bonnet-Ponson to 1 at Nicolas Maillart, 4.5 at Laherte Frères, up to 7 at Paul Bara and 9 on J. Lassalle’s Cachet Or.
The village shows in the glass
Bouzy is a Grand Cru village on the Montagne de Reims, where Pinot Noir is the main grape, and Paul Bara’s wines are Pinot Noir led. Vertus sits in the Côte des Blancs, the Chardonnay area, where Veuve Fourny farms. The two villages are about 14 miles (22 km) apart.
Bottlings change from year to year
A non-vintage house blend uses reserve wines to keep its style steady. A grower draws on fewer vineyards, so a cold year and a warm year show more in the wine.
Small lots make some cellar choices easier
Fermenting each parcel separately, using native yeast, skipping filtration and bottling small lots are easier across 9 hectares than across 900.

The growers we carry, and where they farm

Six families farm in six villages: five on the Montagne de Reims and one in the Côte des Blancs. The map shows the relief. Each village sits on a slope.

Reims Épernay Écueil Nicolas Maillart Chamery Bonnet-Ponson Chigny-les-Roses J. Lassalle Bouzy Paul Bara Chavot-Courcourt Laherte Frères Vertus Veuve Fourny & Fils
The six villages our grower Champagnes come from, five on the Montagne de Reims and Vertus in the Côte des Blancs. No appellation outline is drawn: Champagne’s delimited boundary is not published as open data. Relief: Mapterhorn. Rivers: OpenStreetMap contributors.

Scroll the table sideways to see all the columns

Producer Village What they do
Paul Bara Bouzy, Grand Cru Eleven hectares, all Grand Cru, Pinot Noir led. Each plot vinified separately in steel with no malolactic conversion, dosage up to 7 g/L.
J. Lassalle Chigny-les-Roses, 1er Cru Founded 1942, run today by three generations of women. Cachet Or is equal parts Meunier, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir at 9 g/L; Cuvée Angéline draws on two parcels planted in 1972 and 1973.
Nicolas Maillart Écueil, 1er Cru Farms organically and certified sustainable. Barrel fermented, unfiltered, dosed at 1 g/L.
Veuve Fourny & Fils Vertus, 1er Cru A family domaine since 1856. Brothers Charles-Henry and Emmanuel farm nearly nine hectares, with partial barrel aging and two and a half years in bottle before release.
Bonnet-Ponson Chamery, 1er Cru Founded 1862, now Cyril Bonnet. Indigenous yeasts, used oak, no fining, no filtration, no added sulfites, and zero dosage.
Laherte Frères Chavot-Courcourt Aurélien Laherte, seventh generation of an estate founded in 1889. Meunier led, fermented across foudre, tank and barrel, dosed at 4.5 g/L.

Every detail in this table comes from the producer’s own listing on our site.

Common questions about grower Champagne

Is grower Champagne better than house Champagne?
RM tells you where the grapes came from: the producer’s own vineyards. It does not rate the wine.
How do I find the RM on a bottle?
Along the bottom of the front label or on the back, in the smallest type on the bottle, next to a registration number. Two letters, then digits.
Do growers make vintage Champagne?
Yes. Look for a year on the label rather than the letters NV. A vintage Champagne ages at least 36 months before release.
Is grower Champagne the same as natural wine?
No, though the two overlap. RM is a registration category about where the grapes come from. Natural wine describes the farming and the cellar work. A grower can farm conventionally, and a house can buy organic grapes.
Where should I start?
Try two bottles at opposite ends of the dosage range on our shelf: Paul Bara from Bouzy, at up to 7 grams per liter, and Bonnet-Ponson, at zero.

Sources

Try a grower Champagne

We buy Champagne from families rather than houses. Each listing names the village, the cru, the grapes and the dosage, so you can read a bottle before you open it.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers in Southern Styria, Austria
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What are you drinking tonight?

Explore the cellar, or let us choose for you with a curated natural wine club shipment.