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La Mongestine

Harry and Céline Gozlan, natural wine producers at Domaine de la Mongestine in Provence, France

The short version

Harry and Céline Gozlan, with winemaker Maxime Gamard, farm 31 organic hectares on a high-altitude Provence plateau above Jouques, crafting mineral, fruit-forward wines that stand apart from the region's mainstream rosé.
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On a cool, windswept plateau north of Aix-en-Provence, Domaine de la Mongestine occupies a singular corner of Provence that most wine tourists never find. The estate sits near the village of Artigues, at elevations reaching 450 meters — among the highest in the appellation — where day-night temperature swings preserve freshness in a region better known for heat.

Backstory

Harry and Céline Gozlan purchased La Mongestine in 2017, drawn by its exceptional terroir and the potential they saw in its neglected vines. Harry had previously worked in finance and computer programming; both brought an outsider's clarity to an estate that needed reinvention. They partnered with Maxime Gamard, a local winemaker with deep roots in organic and biodynamic viticulture, who joined as winemaker and technical guide. Together the three set about transforming the estate into one of Provence's most interesting natural wine addresses.

The Region

The Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and IGP Pays des Coteaux de Verdon appellations frame La Mongestine's wines. The estate's high-plateau position within these zones gives it a cooler microclimate than most neighboring estates, slowing ripening and building natural acidity into every variety grown.

Vineyards and Farming

La Mongestine cultivates 31 planted hectares on clay-limestone and alluvial soils across north-facing hillside slopes. Organic certification was established in 2014, and the estate has been transitioning toward biodynamic practices since the Gozlans' arrival. Grape varieties include Grenache noir, Syrah, Cinsault, Vermentino, Grenache blanc, Pinot Noir, Roussanne, and Marselan, reflecting both traditional Provençal and experimental choices.

Winemaking

At La Mongestine, native yeasts drive all fermentations. None of the cuvées see sulfur until bottling. The cellar relies on inert tanks and amphora rather than wood, allowing micro-oxygenation without obscuring terroir. Some whites and rosés undergo skin contact; the Bob Singlar orange wine receives four weeks on skins. Gentle extractions and minimal aging preserve the freshness that the altitude provides.

The Wines

The La Mongestine lineup includes Bob Singlar in red, white, and orange (the estate's signature range), Les Monges Rouge, Caudalies (red, rosé, white), Pinot Noir aged in third- and fourth-pass French oak, and a sparkling Bob à Bulles. The wines are cheerful, precise, and priced accessibly for the quality level on offer.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers in Southern Styria, Austria
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

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