It is sadly quite rare to find true natural wineries, real ambassadors of tradition and terroir, in Veneto’s famed Valpolicella area. Although blessed with a vibrant land and an ancient history of viticulture, Valpolicella, world-famous for Amarone, has become a symbol of Parker-style oak-laden fruit-bombs. Fortunately, some lone heroes do exist and of late the trend seems to be gradually...