Nerello Mascalese is the main red grape of Mount Etna, the volcano in north-eastern Sicily. Growers there make pale, aromatic reds from it, often from old bush vines on volcanic soil. Wine writers often compare those reds to Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir for how clearly they show the vineyard.
The name
The grape takes its name from the Mascali plain on the eastern flank of the volcano. In Sicilian it goes by Niureddu Mascalisi.
Where it grows
Most Nerello Mascalese grows on Etna, in a horseshoe of vineyards on the north, east and south slopes. Etna growers name their vineyards by contrada, the local name for a single site. The grape ripens late, and its wine changes a lot with altitude and contrada.
How the wine tastes
Expect a pale to medium ruby color and a medium body. The acidity runs high and the tannins feel fine but firm. Typical aromas are red cherry, dried herbs, orange peel and spice, with a mineral note.
Where you find it
DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) is Italy's protected appellation system. Each DOC sets which grapes a wine must contain.
- Etna Rosso DOC: at least 80% Nerello Mascalese, with up to 20% Nerello Cappuccio. Etna Rosato follows the same rule. Etna became a DOC in 1968.
- Faro DOC: a red from the hills around Messina. It blends 45 to 60% Nerello Mascalese with 15 to 30% Nerello Cappuccio and 5 to 10% Nocera. Faro became a DOC in 1976.
- Contea di Sclafani DOC: allows a single-variety Nerello Mascalese.
- Sicilia DOC: the island-wide appellation.
Sources: Italian Wine Central, Wikipedia, the production rules for Etna DOC and Faro DOC.
Illustration based on a photo by Paul Asman and Jill Lenoble, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr
