Fattoria di Gratena

Fabio de Ambrogi, natural wine producer of Fattoria di Gratena, holding a bottle in his vineyard near Arezzo in Tuscany, Italy

The short version

An organic Tuscan estate above Arezzo run by the Sieni family, championing native Sangiovese and the recently recognized indigenous grape Gratena Nero.
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About ten kilometers from Arezzo, perched at 400 meters in the eastern Tuscan hills, Fattoria di Gratena has farmed organically since the mid-1990s with a single-minded focus on native grapes.

History and People

The Sieni family bought the property in 1968. Today it is run by Rosanna and Paolo Sieni, with winemaking by Fabio Mecca. The estate committed to organic farming and certification in the mid-1990s, bottling and certifying all its products as organic.

The Region

Gratena lies in the hills near Pieve a Maiano, around ten kilometers from the city of Arezzo in eastern Tuscany, at roughly 400 meters above sea level.

Vineyards and Farming

The estate spans about 180 hectares, with around 16 to 17 hectares of vines and 10 of olive trees. Farming is organic: the soil is enriched with organic manure, and copper and sulfur are the only treatments used. The estate works exclusively with native varieties, led by Sangiovese on calcareous-clay soils, and also cultivates Gratena Nero, a Tuscan grape officially recognized by the University of Milan in 2017.

Winemaking

Grapes are hand-harvested for precise selection. Fermentation is spontaneous, relying on indigenous yeasts, in steel tanks positioned outdoors so the wines benefit from natural day-to-night temperature swings.

The Wines

The range centers on Chianti DOCG and a Chianti Riserva, both built on 100 percent Sangiovese, alongside expressions of the estate's own Gratena Nero. Most of the production is exported.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

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