Ludovic Chanson spent years working in pharmaceutical research before a chance encounter with the vignerons of Montlouis changed his course entirely. Since his first vintage in 2009 he has established one of the appellation's most respected natural wine estates, coaxing crystalline Chenin Blanc from silex and clay soils on the Husseau plateau.
Backstory
After leaving his career in pharmaceuticals in 2007, Chanson spent a formative year working with Vincent Carême at his renowned Vouvray estate and gained further experience alongside Damien Délécheneau at Domaine La Grange Tiphaine. In 2008 he acquired a 6.5-hectare property in Montlouis whose vineyards had already been farmed organically since 2006. He made his first solo vintage in 2009. The estate is also supported by Fumihiko, a former sommelier from Osaka who joined the team.
The Region
Montlouis-sur-Loire is a small AOC on the left bank of the Loire directly opposite Vouvray, just east of Tours. The appellation grows almost exclusively Chenin Blanc and has attracted a new generation of producers drawn by its complex flint and clay soils and affordable land. Chanson's work, recognised by Decanter Magazine which ranked his Les Cabotines first in a horizontal Chenin tasting for the 2015 vintage, has helped bring international attention to the area.
Vineyards and Farming
The domaine covers 6.5 hectares certified organic under Agriculture Biologique. Of these, 4.7 hectares are planted to Chenin Blanc with smaller parcels of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The soils across the Husseau plateau are predominantly sandy-silty with deep limestone, silex, and flint. Hand harvesting is carried out in successive passes through the rows.
Winemaking
Chanson works with indigenous yeasts throughout. He adds no chaptalisation, enzymes, or bentonite, and blocks malolactic fermentation to preserve freshness. Still wines are aged in neutral oak. Pétillant naturel wines are made by the traditional méthode ancestrale: fermentation is arrested partway through and the wine is bottled to finish in the bottle on its residual sugar alone, with no added sugar or starter culture. Sulfur is used sparingly, typically at 15 to 32 parts per million. Annual production is approximately 25,000 bottles.
The Wines
The portfolio covers a range of styles across the Chenin Blanc spectrum. Les Cabotines is a dry, crystalline still wine. Implicite is aged 24 months in barrel and built for the cellar. Les Pêchers is off-dry. Safran is a moelleux with around 64 grams per litre of residual sugar. Among the sparkling wines, Les Pions is a dry pétillant naturel, while Gavroche is made from Sauvignon Blanc.