Frank Cornelissen MunJebel Bianco 2023

Belgian-born Frank Cornelissen established his winery in 2001 on Mount Etna's northern slopes in Solicchiata, Sicily—a time when Etna as a wine region remained largely undiscovered. Today, the northern valley where Cornelissen farms is considered Etna's premier area for single-vineyard wines, drawing comparisons to Burgundy's Côte de Nuits and Piedmont's Barolo zone.

Cornelissen's farming philosophy rests on accepting that humans cannot fully understand nature's complexity. Rather than imposing decisions on the land, he observes and follows the indications of what he calls "Mother Earth." This approach led him to abandon all vineyard treatments—chemical, biological, and biodynamic alike. The estate spans approximately 12 hectares, with 10 hectares planted to vines trained in the traditional alberello (bush vine) system across multiple contrade at elevations between 600 and 1,000 meters.

Beyond the dominant Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio typical of Etna, Cornelissen cultivates nearly vanished indigenous varieties including Grecanico Dorato, Minnella Bianca, Minnella Nera, and Coda di Volpe. Many vines remain ungrafted in the highest plots. Annual production reaches approximately 20,000 bottles of wine alongside 600 bottles of olive oil.

In the cellar, fermentations proceed spontaneously using only indigenous yeasts. Cornelissen originally vinified in buried terracotta amphorae of various sizes crafted from local lava stone, though he has since incorporated fiberglass and epoxy tanks for certain cuvées. Wines bottle unfined and often unfiltered, with minimal or zero added sulfites depending on vintage stability.

The range includes the entry-level Susucaru wines and the more site-specific Munjebel bottlings—"Munjebel" being the Sicilian Arabic name for Mount Etna. The top-tier Magma wines come from exceptional single contrade between 650 and 1,010 meters elevation. As Cornelissen states: "Wines before being good must be true." His natural wines from Sicily have earned a devoted international following.

Sicily is Italy's largest island and third-largest wine-producing region, trailing only Veneto and Tuscany in volume. The Strait of Messina separates this Mediterranean island from the Italian mainland, while diverse geography—from coastal plains to the active volcano Mount Etna—creates remarkably varied growing conditions across the region.

Viticulture in Sicily dates back millennia, with Greek colonizers planting vines as early as the 8th century BCE. Today, vineyards cover approximately 100,000 hectares across terrain ranging from sea level to over 1,000 meters elevation on Etna's slopes. The island's climate is predominantly Mediterranean—hot, dry summers and mild winters—though altitude and maritime influences create significant microclimatic variation.

Indigenous grape varieties dominate Sicilian vineyards. Nero d'Avola remains the most widely planted red grape, producing deeply colored wines with dark fruit character. On Mount Etna, Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio thrive on volcanic soils at high elevations, yielding elegant, mineral-driven reds often compared to Burgundy. White varieties include Catarratto (Sicily's most planted grape overall), Grillo, Inzolia, Carricante, and Grecanico Dorato.

The island holds numerous appellations. Etna DOC gained recognition in 1968, making it one of southern Italy's oldest denominations. Other notable designations include Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG (Sicily's only DOCG), Marsala DOC for the famous fortified wines, and various IGT classifications including the flexible Terre Siciliane IGT.

A growing natural wine movement has transformed Sicily's reputation over the past two decades. Producers on Etna in particular have attracted international attention for low-intervention winemaking that highlights volcanic terroir and indigenous varieties. The combination of ancient grape varieties, dramatic landscapes, and a new generation of quality-focused vignerons positions Sicily among Italy's most dynamic wine regions.