Ruth Lewandowski

Evan Lewandowski sampling fruit in a Mendocino vineyard, black and white
History

Evan Lewandowski chased harvests from Italy to Alsace, then founded his winery in Utah in 2012, naming it for the Book of Ruth and its cycle of death and renewal.

Farming

Fruit comes from organically farmed sites in Mendocino County, chiefly Fox Hill and Testa. The long-term dream is to grow everything in Utah.

Winemaking

Fermentation starts in California, then the live juice rides a refrigerated U-Haul across the desert to Salt Lake City to finish. Native yeast, minimal intervention.

The wines

The core trio, Mahlon, Chilion, and Boaz, takes its names from the Book of Ruth, all bottled without fining, filtration, or added sulfites.

The short version

Evan Lewandowski ferments Mendocino fruit in California, then drives the live juice in a refrigerated U-Haul to Salt Lake City to finish it, building a Utah winery named after his favorite book of the Old Testament.
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Ruth Lewandowski is not named for a person. Evan Lewandowski named his winery after his favorite book in the Old Testament, the Book of Ruth, whose story turns on the cycle of death and renewal. In it, Ruth has three men in her life: Mahlon, Chilion, and Boaz. Each one lends its name to a wine.

Backstory

Evan Lewandowski came to wine through a job at a Salt Lake City wine bar and a stint as a sommelier, then went looking for harvests around the world. He worked at Tenute Loacker in Italy, Torbreck and Cape Jaffa in Australia, L'Ecole No. 41 and Quivira in the United States, Bodega Colome in Argentina, and finally Domaine Binner in Alsace, whose natural approach left a deep mark. In 2012 he returned to Utah and founded Ruth Lewandowski Wines.

Vineyards & Farming

The fruit comes from organically farmed sites in Mendocino County, California, chiefly Fox Hill Vineyard and Testa Vineyards. Lewandowski sees organic practice as the natural outcome of deep vineyard knowledge, the idea that a grower working constantly among the vines, mindful of both the sky above and the soil below, will come to farm them honestly. The long-term goal is ambitious: to one day grow all of his grapes in Utah.

Winemaking

The signature move is logistical and a little improbable. Lewandowski starts fermentation in California, then transports the actively fermenting juice in a refrigerated U-Haul across the desert to his home base in Salt Lake City, where he finishes fermentation, aging, and bottling. The wines are hand-harvested, fermented with native yeast, and made with minimal intervention, then bottled without fining, filtration, or added sulfites, several of them under a Cuvee Zero designation.

The Wines

The core trio takes its names from the Book of Ruth. Mahlon is the bright, crisp white, 100 percent Arneis from Fox Hill Vineyard, full of white flower, lemon curd, almond, and stony minerality. Chilion is built on Cortese, and Boaz is a red blend of Carignan, Cabernet, and Grenache. A multi-varietal blend called Feints rounds out a range that has helped put Utah on the natural-wine map.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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