Les Vins Pirouettes was born out of a simple observation: Alsace had no shortage of talented, conscientious growers farming organically and biodynamically — but most of them were selling their fruit to cooperatives rather than making wine under their own name. Christian Binner, already a recognized figure in Alsatian natural wine, set out to change that.
Backstory
Binner has farmed his family's 11-hectare estate in Ammerschwihr — documented since 1770 — using biodynamic methods since 2003. In 2009 he launched Les Vins Pirouettes as a collaborative label, inviting small growers to vinify their own fruit with his guidance and bring the resulting wines to market. The project has grown steadily; as of the mid-2020s, over twenty growers participate. Since 2023 the Lycée Viticole de Rouffach — one of France's official winemaking schools — has joined the project, marking natural winemaking's entry into France's formal enological curriculum.
The Region
The collective spans the full length of Alsace, from the northern Bas-Rhin to the southern Haut-Rhin. Participating vineyards sit on granite, limestone, volcanic sandstone, and other diverse soils that give each cuvée a distinct personality. The continental climate of Alsace, moderated by the Vosges mountains, produces reliably ripe grapes while preserving the region's characteristic aromatic freshness.
Vineyards & Farming
Every grower in the collective must practice organic or biodynamic viticulture, certified by Ecocert or equivalent. Grapes are hand-harvested. Classic Alsatian varieties anchor the portfolio: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sylvaner, and Muscat, along with Klevener de Heiligenstein for select cuvées.
Winemaking
All wines ferment spontaneously with native yeasts in individual growers' cellars, with no temperature control and no added inputs for the majority of cuvées. There is no fining, no filtration, and no sulfur added. Each bottle identifies the contributing grower by first name — François, Raphaël, Stéphane, Jean-Marc, and so on — alongside a descriptor indicating style or origin.
The Wines
The range spans more than 30 cuvées organized loosely by style: Glou Glous (light and early-drinking), Tutti Frutti (aromatic blends), and Eros (skin-contact and macerated whites). Specific wines include le Brutal!, Cubique, Eros de Vincent, Espectacular de Stéphane, and the Pét-Nat de Fabrice. The collective is distributed in the United States through Jenny & François Selections.
