Herve Villemade is one of the defining figures of natural wine in the Loire Valley, a careful steward of the Cheverny appellation whose pure, energetic wines have won a devoted following.
Backstory
The family estate, Domaine du Moulin, was founded in 1939 by Herve's grandfather Desire in the village of Cellettes. Herve took over in 1995. After tasting wines by Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais and Thierry Puzelat at Clos du Tue-Boeuf in nearby Les Montils, he resolved to work the natural way, and began converting the estate to organic farming in 2000.
The Region
The domaine lies in Cellettes, within the Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny AOCs of the Loire Valley, France. The vines sit in a mix of clay and sandy soils studded with silex flint over a limestone base.
Vineyards & Farming
Today the domaine comprises roughly 22 to 25 hectares of organically farmed vines, supplemented by a small negociant activity for local fruit. Plantings include Pinot Noir, Gamay, Cot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, the local Romorantin and Menu Pineau, Chenin Blanc and Pinot d'Aunis.
Winemaking
All fermentations are spontaneous, carried out with native yeasts. Elevage takes place across a range of vessels, including concrete tank, foudre, tronconic vats, neutral barrique and amphora. Added sulfur is kept to an absolute minimum and is omitted entirely for several cuvees.
The Wines
Villemade bottles crisp Cheverny Blanc and Rouge, the rare Romorantin-based Cour-Cheverny, and single-variety cuvees including Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot d'Aunis, all marked by purity and a vivid natural energy.