Gonzalo Grijalba grew up among the vines his family farmed in Fuenmayor, in the heart of Rioja Alta. He studied biology and oenology, then traveled through France and Italy learning from small growers before a brief stint at an industrial winery. In 2003 he walked away from all of it to make natural wine his own way, a decision hardened by the death of his father from an illness caused by years of working with chemical fertilizers and herbicides.
Backstory
That personal loss reshaped Gonzalo's philosophy entirely. He rejected the market-driven fashions and chemical treatments of conventional Rioja and committed himself to farming and winemaking with respect for the land and its traditions. His best-known label, Gran Cerdo, meaning big pig, is a pointed tribute to the bankers who refused him a loan on the grounds that wine was not a seizable asset.
The Region
His vineyards lie in the La Tejera area around Fuenmayor, set between groves of trees along the Ebro River and Mount San Llorente in Rioja Alta, on calcareous clay soils.
Vineyards and Farming
Gonzalo farms about 4.5 hectares of 100 percent Tempranillo, planted some 35 years ago, using organic and biodynamic practices with no chemical treatments.
Winemaking
He works with whole-bunch fermentation in concrete tanks, using only native yeasts and no oak influence. The wines see no fining or stabilization and only minimal sulphur, staying true to his vision of honest, affordable, additive-free Rioja.
The Wines
The Gran Cerdo range includes a juicy Tempranillo, a white and a rosado, all made under his The Wine Love project. They have become a beloved proof that great, principled Rioja need not be expensive.