Gonzalo Gonzalo

Gonzalo Gonzalo - natural wine producer profile | Primal Wine illustration

The short version

After his father's death from agrochemical exposure, Gonzalo Grijalba abandoned industrial winemaking to make sulfur-free, biodynamic Rioja under the cheeky Gran Cerdo label.
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Gonzalo Grijalba grew up among the vines his family farmed in Fuenmayor, in the heart of Rioja Alta. He studied biology and oenology, then traveled through France and Italy learning from small growers before a brief stint at an industrial winery. In 2003 he walked away from all of it to make natural wine his own way, a decision hardened by the death of his father from an illness caused by years of working with chemical fertilizers and herbicides.

Backstory

That personal loss reshaped Gonzalo's philosophy entirely. He rejected the market-driven fashions and chemical treatments of conventional Rioja and committed himself to farming and winemaking with respect for the land and its traditions. His best-known label, Gran Cerdo, meaning big pig, is a pointed tribute to the bankers who refused him a loan on the grounds that wine was not a seizable asset.

The Region

His vineyards lie in the La Tejera area around Fuenmayor, set between groves of trees along the Ebro River and Mount San Llorente in Rioja Alta, on calcareous clay soils.

Vineyards and Farming

Gonzalo farms about 4.5 hectares of 100 percent Tempranillo, planted some 35 years ago, using organic and biodynamic practices with no chemical treatments.

Winemaking

He works with whole-bunch fermentation in concrete tanks, using only native yeasts and no oak influence. The wines see no fining or stabilization and only minimal sulphur, staying true to his vision of honest, affordable, additive-free Rioja.

The Wines

The Gran Cerdo range includes a juicy Tempranillo, a white and a rosado, all made under his The Wine Love project. They have become a beloved proof that great, principled Rioja need not be expensive.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

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