Forteto della Luja

Giovanni Scaglione, natural wine producer of Forteto della Luja, nosing a glass of Moscato in his barrel cellar in Loazzolo, Piedmont, Italy

The short version

In Italy's smallest DOC, the Scaglione family farm a WWF nature oasis in Loazzolo, reviving raisined Moscato passito alongside biodynamic Piedmontese reds.
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Forteto della Luja is as much a nature reserve as a winery. Since 2007 its hillsides have been an affiliated WWF oasis, where wild orchids and diverse fauna share the slopes with the vines that surround the Rio Luja.

Backstory

The property was first registered as a farm in 1826, with some buildings dating to the 18th century, and it has been in the Scaglione family for eight generations. Until 1985 the grapes were largely sold to local vintners. That year, encouraged by the celebrated producer Giacomo Bologna and reviving the customs of a great-grandfather, the family began drying Moscato grapes to make the Moscato Passito, which went on to win prestigious awards. The estate is run today by Giovanni Scaglione with Cristina Scaglione.

The Region

The estate lies in Loazzolo, in the hills of Piedmont. Loazzolo is Italy's smallest DOC, and the family also works in the Asti and Monferrato denominations within the Canelli zone, a landscape of steep, wooded hills well suited to aromatic Moscato.

Vineyards and Farming

The name Forteto della Luja comes from the woodlands, traversed by the Rio Luja, that wrap around the vineyards. As a WWF-affiliated oasis the estate practices biodynamic and organic farming, prioritizing biodiversity, with orchids and wildlife thriving among the rows.

The Wines

The flagship remains the sweet Loazzolo Moscato passito, made from raisined grapes. Alongside it the family produces dry Piedmontese wines including a Barbera d'Asti, expressing the same nature-first farming in a savory register.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

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