Fabrice Chaillou is part of the new generation of natural vignerons reshaping Anjou, working on a tiny scale with an almost single-minded devotion to Chenin Blanc.
Backstory
Chaillou established his domaine in 2016, based around Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay in Anjou, in the Loire Valley of France.
The Region
Anjou-Saumur is Chenin country, where schist and other Loire soils give the grape its tension and salinity. Chaillou farms a small holding of roughly two to two and a half hectares.
Vineyards and Farming
About 90 percent of his vines are Chenin Blanc, with a little Grolleau and Gamay. He works as naturally as possible from vineyard to cellar, including parcels of very old, even centenarian, vines.
Winemaking
Vinification follows the natural-wine playbook, with minimal intervention and a focus on letting site and vine speak. Wines are released under the Vin de France and Anjou banners.
The Wines
The cuvees include La Devergondee, a Chenin petillant naturel, alongside still Chenins such as Margas, 16 Ares, and Midion from old vines, plus Gronadine, a blend of about 80 percent Grolleau and 20 percent Gamay.