South of Nantes, where the Loire flattens toward the broad expanse of Lake Grand-Lieu, brothers Herve and Nicolas Choblet make Muscadet with the patience of producers who know their lees-aged whites can rival far grander appellations.
Backstory
The first Muscadet vines were planted on the estate in 1944. Herve and Nicolas Choblet are the fourth generation to run it, dividing responsibilities so that one brother leads vinification while the other handles management and sales. The domaine is based in Bouaye, in the Loire-Atlantique department.
The Region
Haut Bourg lies in the heart of the Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu appellation, one of the cooler, maritime-influenced sub-zones of the Muscadet country around Lake Grand-Lieu.
Vineyards and Farming
The estate today covers around 40 hectares. A portion of the vines, including Melon de Bourgogne, Grolleau Gris and Sauvignon Blanc, has been converted to organic farming, with those wines released under the H and N Choblet name. The estate is also certified under Terra Vitis for sustainable viticulture.
Winemaking
The must settles for about 48 hours before fermentation with indigenous yeasts at controlled temperatures. The signature of the house is long lees aging: the top cuvees can rest on their lees for many years before release.
The Wines
Alongside a bracing, classic Muscadet Sur Lie, the brothers make old-vine cuvees such as Signature, drawn from vines of 30 to 60 years and aged five to seven years on lees. In exceptional vintages they release Origine du Haut Bourg, from the oldest vines on the estate, aged seven to ten years on lees. They also bottle a Sauvignon under the IGP Val de Loire.