Château Ducasse

Hervé Dubourdieu, natural wine producer, tasting a glass of his white wine at Château Ducasse in Bordeaux, France

The short version

A perfectionist Barsac grower coaxes weighty, age-worthy dry white Bordeaux from old Semillon on clay and limestone over fissured rock.
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In the heart of Barsac, better known for its sweet wines, Hervé Dubourdieu makes one of the Gironde's most quietly compelling dry whites. His easy charm masks a ferocious perfectionism, and the result is a Bordeaux Blanc that drinks with the texture and length of a far pricier bottle.

Backstory

The Dubourdieu family has farmed around Barsac since 1890. Hervé Dubourdieu inherited Château Roûmieu-Lacoste through his mother's side and today leads several family estates under the Vignobles Hervé Dubourdieu et Fils banner, including Château Graville-Lacoste in the Graves and Château Ducasse for Bordeaux Blanc.

The Region

Château Ducasse sits southeast of the city of Bordeaux near Barsac, in the Sauternes and Graves corner of the right region for white wine. The dry whites here trade botrytis sweetness for freshness and cut.

Vineyards and Farming

The roughly 13 hectares grow on complex clay and limestone soils over fissured rock. The vines average 35 years of age, old enough to dig deep and concentrate. Farming follows lutte raisonnée, a restrained approach that keeps treatments to a minimum.

Winemaking

The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel for around six months, with no oak. That choice preserves aromatics and tension while letting the fruit speak. Alcohol typically lands near 12 percent.

The Wines

The flagship Bordeaux Blanc is built around Semillon, usually about 70 percent, rounded out with Sauvignon Blanc. Dubourdieu prizes Semillon for the weight and texture it brings, qualities Sauvignon Blanc cannot deliver alone. The wine is fresh and mineral in youth yet has the stuffing to develop in bottle.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

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