Castello di Tassarolo

Massimiliana Spinola, natural wine producer, at her biodynamic estate Castello di Tassarolo in Gavi, Piedmont, Italy

The short version

A Gavi estate held by the Spinola family since the 14th century, where Massimiliana Spinola farms biodynamically with draft horses and made the first Gavi without added sulfur.
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At the heart of Gavi, Castello di Tassarolo joins centuries of aristocratic history to some of Piedmont's most committed biodynamic farming.

Backstory

The Spinola family, of Genoese origin, has been connected to the castle at Tassarolo since the Middle Ages and has made wine from these vineyards since 1367. Massimiliana Spinola, who spent years working in the contemporary art world in New York and London, returned to Tassarolo in 2005 and took over the estate after her father's death.

The Region

The estate lies in the commune of Tassarolo, in the Gavi zone of Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria, with 17 hectares of vineyards surrounding the winery.

Vineyards and Farming

From 2006 Massimiliana and her team converted to biodynamics. The estate is certified organic (Bios, from 2006) and biodynamic (Agri BioDinamica, from 2007), as well as USDA Organic and vegan. A distinctive feature is the use of draft horses in the vineyard, introduced through Henry Finzi-Constantine, an early developer of horse-drawn biodynamic equipment in northern Italy. The main grape is Cortese, alongside Barbera and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Winemaking

In 2007 the estate produced one of the first Gavi wines without added sulfur. Working with their enologist, Massimiliana and her team developed a way of making whites that are neither sulfured nor oxidative, crediting the health of soils and grapes from biodynamic work.

The Wines

The flagship is Gavi from Cortese, including the Orsola bottling whose label draws on an Andy Warhol portrait of Orsola Spinola, plus a sulfur-free Gavi and reds from the estate's other grapes.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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