Agricola La Portera

Agricola La Portera — natural wine producer

The short version

Three veteran Spanish winemakers chase old-vine Bobal and Garnacha across Valencia and Aragon, bottling tiny parcels under the Tardano and La Pinada labels.
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The name comes from a tiny Valencian village, La Portera, where the first parcel of old-vine Bobal sparked the whole project. Today the wines also reach north into the high vineyards of Aragon.

Backstory

La Portera began in 2017, when Jorge Navascues and Javier del Blanco set out to bottle small plots of old-vine Bobal from Javier's home region near Valencia. Francisco Santiso later joined them. All three are seasoned professionals who advise and run other respected Spanish estates, so the project is a labor of love pursued alongside their day jobs. Jorge represents the third generation of winemakers in Aragon and the fourth generation of growers in Requena. The debut wine, La Pinada, drew international critical praise on release and confirmed the direction.

The Region

In 2019 the team expanded into Cariñena, in Aragon near Zaragoza. It is one of Spain's oldest appellations, granted Denominacion de Origen status in 1932, and a historic stronghold of Garnacha. This is high, continental country, with hot days and cold nights that give the old vines structure and freshness in equal measure.

Vineyards & Farming

The Cariñena Garnacha grows on a couple of plots of clay and limestone soils at around 650 meters elevation, where altitude tempers the Aragonese heat. The team's stated philosophy is to find the right combination of vine, soil, and climate for each wine, working old, low-yielding vines that earlier generations had largely overlooked. The grapes that anchor the project, Bobal and Garnacha, once covered vast areas of Spain before falling out of fashion.

Winemaking

The cellar work is deliberately minimal, built to let each variety and site show clearly. Fermentations and handling stay hands-off, prioritizing transparency over technique. The aim, in the producers' own words, is fresh, distinctive wines with a true sense of place rather than anything heavy or overworked.

The Wines

The Cariñena range carries the Tardano label, with a Garnacha that speaks to Jorge's Aragonese roots and a white from Macabeo, both grown on the high clay-limestone plots. From Valencia, La Pinada showcases the original old-vine Bobal that started everything. Each is a small-production, terroir-first wine that puts forgotten Spanish grapes back at the center of the glass and argues that Cariñena and old-vine Bobal deserve a fresh look.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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