Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Branella 2021

The Pepe family has produced wine in Torano Nuovo, in Abruzzo's northern province of Teramo, since 1899. The modern era began in 1964 when Emidio Pepe took over operations, dedicating himself to proving the aging potential of Trebbiano and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo—a revolutionary concept at a time when local farmers considered him eccentric for cellaring wines rather than selling them young.

The estate now spans 17 hectares, up from the single hectare Emidio started with. Vineyards sit between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains on clay soils over solid limestone. The family gained biodynamic certification in 2006, though organic practices had been followed for decades prior. Fourth-generation sisters Daniela and Sofia Pepe have managed production since 1997, with fifth-generation Chiara de Iulis Pepe now leading winemaking decisions.

Winemaking at Emidio Pepe follows methods unchanged since the 1960s. Trebbiano grapes are foot-trodden in wooden tubs—a practice that avoids contact between iron presses and fruit acids while extracting subtle phenolic complexity. Red wines undergo hand-destemming. All fermentation proceeds spontaneously with native yeasts in cement tanks, where wines age 18-24 months. Nothing sees oak. Wines bottle unfined and unfiltered.

Starting with the 2020 vintage, Emidio Pepe introduced single-vineyard designations for their old-vine Montepulciano: Branella (planted 1966, acquired 1981) and Casa Pepe (planted by Emidio himself in the 1970s). This decision followed extensive soil studies with geologist Brenna Quigley, revealing distinct terroir differences between the two parcels just 300 meters apart.

The estate maintains a library cellar of over 350,000 bottles, releasing aged vintages in small quantities. Montepulciano bottles aged 20+ years are hand-decanted into new bottles before release—a practice unique to this natural wine producer in Italy.

Situated in central Italy along the Adriatic coast, Abruzzo stretches from sea level to the peaks of the Apennine Mountains, with the Gran Sasso massif—the highest point in the range—dominating the western horizon. This geographic diversity creates varied growing conditions across the region's four provinces: L'Aquila, Teramo, Pescara, and Chieti.

Winemaking in Abruzzo dates to the sixth century BCE when Etruscan settlers introduced viticulture. Today, vineyards cover the hilly terrain between the mountains and the sea, benefiting from both maritime moderation and alpine cooling. The combination produces significant diurnal temperature variation, helping grapes retain acidity while achieving full ripeness.

Two indigenous varieties define the region. Montepulciano—not to be confused with the Tuscan town—dominates red wine production on approximately 17,000 hectares. The grape yields deeply colored wines with soft tannins and dark fruit character, ranging from everyday drinking wines to structured, age-worthy bottles. The same variety produces Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, a cherry-pink rosato made with limited skin contact.

Trebbiano Abruzzese accounts for most white wine production, though it differs genetically from the more common Trebbiano Toscano. When carefully cultivated and traditionally vinified, Trebbiano Abruzzese produces whites of notable complexity and aging potential. Other indigenous white varieties gaining recognition include Pecorino, Passerina, and Cococciola.

Abruzzo holds two DOCG designations—Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane and Terre Tollesi—alongside seven DOC appellations. The region's natural wine movement has grown considerably, with producers demonstrating that both Montepulciano and Trebbiano can achieve depth and longevity through low-intervention methods.

Local cuisine pairs naturally with regional wines. Signature dishes include maccheroni alla chitarra (square-cut pasta), arrosticini (lamb skewers), and brodetto (fish stew)—all reflecting a food culture that favors direct, ingredient-driven flavors complemented by the region's characterful red and white wines.