Barbacan Farasciöle Orange 2022

Barbacan is a family-run natural winery located in San Giacomo di Teglio in the Valtellina region of Lombardy, northern Italy. Founded by Angelo Sega and now managed alongside his sons Luca and Matteo, this small estate cultivates approximately 6 hectares of vineyards on steep terraced slopes between 400 and 750 meters above sea level. The winery takes its name from the local dialect term for the stone buttressing walls that support the ancient terraces, reflecting the family's deep connection to their Alpine territory.

Barbacan practices what Italians call "heroic viticulture," working vineyards with slopes so extreme that all farming must be done entirely by hand. The family specializes in Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo, alongside nearly forgotten indigenous varieties including Rossola, Pignola, Brugnola, Negrera, Rossolino Rosa, and Chiavennasca Bianca. The Sega family maintains over 20 different clones of Chiavennasca, preserving genetic diversity in vineyards where some vines date back to the 1930s.

The winery follows certified organic farming practices with minimal intervention. Barbacan uses only copper and sulfur treatments in the vineyards, avoiding all synthetic chemicals. In the cellar, fermentation occurs spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Wines are aged in large neutral oak barrels, then bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal sulfur additions. This approach produces wines that authentically express each vintage and the granitic, sandy soils rich in gneiss and quartz.

Barbacan's wine range includes the approachable Rosso di Valtellina and Rosato Alpi Retiche, alongside prestigious single-vineyard crus. The Sol Valtellina Superiore comes from 1920s-era vines, while Jazpémi represents the estate's flagship cru from the Valgella subzone. The top wine, Fracia Riserva, undergoes extended aging for greater complexity.

The winery's distinctive labels feature Neolithic cave paintings discovered in the surrounding mountains, symbolizing the ancient connection between the land and Alpine farming traditions. Barbacan stands as one of the few completely natural producers in Valtellina, crafting mineral-driven, elegant wines that showcase the unique character of high-altitude Nebbiolo.

Lombardy stretches across northern Italy from the Swiss border to the Po Valley, creating one of the country's most geographically diverse wine regions. The region encompasses dramatic Alpine peaks, glacial lakes including Como and Garda, rolling hills, and fertile plains. This varied landscape produces wines ranging from delicate sparkling bottles to powerful mountain reds, each reflecting distinct microclimates and soil compositions.

Valtellina: Mountain Nebbiolo in the Alps

The Valtellina valley runs along the Adda River near the Swiss border, where vineyards cling to vertiginous south-facing terraced slopes between 300 and 900 meters elevation. Here, Nebbiolo thrives under the local name Chiavennasca, producing wines with bright acidity, mineral backbone, and elegant red fruit profiles distinct from Piedmont's more powerful expressions.

Valtellina encompasses several designations. Rosso di Valtellina DOC represents the entry level, offering accessible, fruit-forward wines like Barbacan Rosso Alpi Retiche. Valtellina Superiore DOCG includes five subzones—Valgella, Grumello, Inferno, Sassella, and Maroggia—each with specific soil types and exposures. Single-vineyard wines like Barbacan Sol and Jazpémi showcase individual terroir expressions from century-old vines planted in granite-rich soils.

The region also produces Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG, made from partially dried grapes similar to Amarone, resulting in concentrated, full-bodied wines with higher alcohol and aging potential. Working these steep slopes requires entirely manual labor—what Italians call "heroic viticulture." Producers like Barbacan maintain ancient terraces supported by dry-stone walls, harvesting grapes in small baskets carried down mountainside steps.

Franciacorta: Italy's Premier Sparkling Wine

Southwest of Lake Iseo lies Franciacorta DOCG, Italy's most prestigious sparkling wine appellation. The region uses the traditional method (metodo classico) with Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, and Pinot Bianco grapes. Franciacorta's glacial moraine soils and lake-moderated climate create conditions comparable to Champagne, producing refined sparkling wines with persistent bubbles, complex aromatics, and notable minerality. Unlike Prosecco's tank method, Franciacorta undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle with minimum aging requirements: 18 months for non-vintage, 30 months for Satèn and Rosé, and 60 months for Riserva.

Lugana and Lake Garda

Along Lake Garda's southern shores, Lugana DOC produces distinctive white wines from Trebbiano di Lugana (also called Turbiana). The clay-limestone soils and lake's temperature-moderating influence yield whites with aromatic intensity, mineral character, and medium body. These wines range from fresh, citrus-driven styles to more structured versions aged in oak.

Oltrepò Pavese: Lombardy's Southern Hills

The Oltrepò Pavese extends into Lombardy's southern reaches near Piacenza, cultivating Pinot Nero for both sparkling and still wines. This area produces substantial volumes, with calcareous marl soils contributing structure and aging potential to reds. The region also grows Barbera, Croatina, and indigenous varieties like Bonarda.

Lesser-Known Appellations

Several smaller designations dot Lombardy's landscape. Valcalepio DOC near Bergamo produces both reds from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and whites from Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio. Botticino DOC crafts robust reds from Barbera, Marzemino, and Sangiovese. Cellatica DOC focuses on Schiava Gentile-based blends. San Colombano al Lambro DOC, entirely within Milan's province, represents one of Europe's smallest appellations.

Natural Winemaking in Lombardy

Lombardy hosts a growing natural wine movement, particularly in Valtellina where producers work with indigenous varieties and traditional methods. Natural winemakers like Barbacan practice organic viticulture, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, and minimal sulfur use. The Barbacan Rosato demonstrates how Chiavennasca produces elegant rosé with crisp acidity and mineral character. The top Fracia Riserva undergoes extended maceration and aging, creating complex, age-worthy wines that express Alpine terroir without manipulation.

Food and Wine Pairing

Lombardy's cuisine matches its wines' diversity. Valtellina's hearty dishes include pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta with cabbage, potatoes, and Bitto cheese) and bresaola (air-dried beef). These pair naturally with structured Chiavennasca reds. Franciacorta complements risotto alla milanese with its acidity cutting through saffron and butter. Lugana whites suit lake fish preparations—perch, pike, and whitefish—common around Garda. Casoncelli (filled pasta) and polenta taragna represent regional staples that highlight local wine characteristics.

Climate and Terroir

Lombardy experiences continental climate patterns modified by altitude and water bodies. Alpine areas see cold winters with significant snowfall and moderate summers with ample sunshine in June through August. Lakes create mesoclimates that extend growing seasons and prevent spring frost damage. The Po Valley plains are warmer with greater temperature swings.

Soils vary dramatically: Valtellina's granite and gneiss provide excellent drainage and mineral content; Franciacorta's glacial moraines mix sand, gravel, and clay; Lugana's white clay retains moisture during dry periods; Oltrepò Pavese's calcareous marls add structure to wines. This geological diversity allows different varieties to find optimal growing conditions within a relatively compact geography.