AFS Should we just rely on luck? 2022

Anders Frederik Steen is a Danish winemaker who formerly worked as a chef and sommelier at some of the best restaurants in Denmark, most notably Noma, where he was the sommelier, Manfreds, and Relae. This previous life was essential in shaping his winemaking approach, which explicitly eschews every established rule and seeks the unexpected from every vintage.

Anders’ approach starts in the vineyards, from the grapes, which he uses as a source of inspiration for the type of wine that he will make. He sources his grapes at Jocelyne & Gérald Oustric’s farm, Le Mazel, in the village of Valvignères, Ardèche region. The vineyards have been farmed organically for a long time and yield healthy grapes, which Anders has been experimenting with for a few vintages.

Anders Frederik Steen’s wines all have a distinct personality. The reds, mostly Grenache-based, are pressed directly or destemmed by hand, fermented spontaneously, bottled unfined and unfiltered; the whites are pressed with an old-school wooden press and made as naturally as possible with no additions. Ardèche shines through in all of Anders’ wines; they are authentic terroir-driven wines.

The Ardèche wine region is located in southern France, covering the Ardèche department and extending into the northern Gard department. It sits on the western banks of the Rhône River, bridging the northern and southern Rhône vineyards. The region is known for its diverse landscapes and climates, making it ideal for vine growing.

Ardèche wines have a long history, with evidence of viticulture dating back to antiquity. The region produces a variety of wines under the IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) Ardèche designation, which was formerly known as Vin de Pays. This classification covers red, white, and rosé wines. Notable grape varieties include Grenache, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamay, the indigenous Chatus for reds, and Chardonnay and Viognier for whites. Other varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Marsanne, and Roussanne are also cultivated.

The Ardèche region is characterized by its varied terroirs, including the mountainous central west, the high plateaux of the Haut-Vivarais and Cévennes, the Bas-Vivarais plains, and the volcanic Coiron plateau. The climate is predominantly Mediterranean, with hot, dry summers and mild winters. The Mistral wind from the north and sea breezes from the south influence the region's weather, contributing to sudden heavy rainfall in spring and autumn. Soils are typically limestone and sandstone, with pebbly, thin soils in vineyard areas that promote good grape concentration.

The production in Ardèche is dominated by cooperatives, which account for 80-95% of the total output. The Union des Vignerons des Coteaux de l'Ardèche (UVICA) oversees 12 cooperatives, with additional independent cooperatives and private producers contributing to the region's wine diversity. Ardèche wines range from fresh and balanced whites to robust and tannic reds, with Chatus being a standout variety.