Agustí Torello Roca Reserva Classic Penedès 2022

AT Roca is leading a significant shift in Penedès, marking a departure from the long-established Cava DO. This movement, initiated by a single winery, has seen an increasing number of top sparkling wine producers moving away from the DO, seeking a stronger connection to the unique characteristics of their locale. This trend reflects the Catalan spirit of individuality, and AT Roca is a prime example of this independence in the heart of Catalunya.

Founded in 2013 by Agustí Torello Roca, alongside his father Agustí Torello Sibill and aunt Lali Torello Sibill, AT Roca places great emphasis on producing wines that embody a true sense of place. The Agustí Torello name carries a legacy in Penedès, renowned for producing high-quality Cava for three generations with Agustí Torello Mata. One of AT Roca's initial goals was to join DO Classic Penedès, a branch of the Penedès DO established in 2012, starting with just 10 members and growing steadily. This organization is notable for being one of the first to mandate organic certification for its members.

Beyond organic farming, DO Classic Penedès sets a high bar with requirements like a minimum of 15 months aging on lees, compared to just 9 months in DO Cava, and mandates that all wines must be made using traditional methods and be vintage dated. AT Roca surpasses these standards, utilizing indigenous yeasts and hand-harvesting all their grapes, a contrast to the predominantly machine-harvested grapes in both Cava and Classic Penedès. Their single-vineyard wines are especially distinguished, fermented in used barrels and aged on lees under natural cork rather than crown caps – a rarity in the region. They use sulfur minimally, only once to inhibit malolactic fermentation, preserving the grapes' natural acidity. True to the ethos of natural wine, all AT Roca's sparkling wines are zero dosage, showcasing their commitment to authentic, terroir-driven winemaking.

Penedès, located west of Barcelona in Catalunya, Spain, is a key player in the natural wine world. Recognized as Catalunya's most vital wine district, Penedès boasts the prestigious DO (Denominación de Origen) status. This region is globally celebrated for producing outstanding Cava sparkling wines, crafted using the traditional Champenoise method.

In Penedès, the Mediterranean climate shapes the terroir, featuring mild winters and hot summers. The region is divided into three subregions: Baix Penedès (Low Penedès), Medio Penedès (Middle Penedès), and Alt Penedès (High Penedès). Each area presents unique climatic variations, influenced by factors like altitude and proximity to the coast. The soil composition in Penedès is diverse, predominantly calcareous, but also includes sandy and clayey varieties.

The red wines of Penedès are typically blends of local grape varieties. The main red grape, Tempranillo, is complemented by Garnacha (Garnatxa), Monastrell, and Carinena. Penedès winemakers have been innovatively blending these native varietals with international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, producing increasingly notable results.

As for white wines, Penedès is expanding its repertoire beyond its famous Cava. Traditional native varietals like Xarel-lo, Macabeo, and Parellada, typically used in Cava production, are now also being crafted into delightful still wines. The introduction of Chardonnay, both in Cava blends and as a standalone varietal for still wines, is a growing trend in the region, adding a new dimension to Penedès's natural wine offerings.