Proxies does not make wine. What it does make--with genuine seriousness and the input of chefs, sommeliers, and a classically trained winemaker--is something that respects wine's place at the table so deeply that it tries to replicate every quality that makes wine worth drinking alongside food, while leaving out the alcohol entirely. In a category crowded with thin, sweet substitutes, Proxies is a genuinely different proposition.
Backstory
Proxies is a project of Acid League, a Toronto-based food and beverage company founded by a team of food scientists, culinary professionals, and entrepreneurs. Acid League first gained attention for its line of artisanal drinking vinegars and fermented condiments before turning its attention to the problem of non-alcoholic beverages. Wine Proxies launched in late 2020, led by Charlie Friedmann, who came from a background in law, restaurant consulting, and food writing. Winemaker Devin Campbell, who holds degrees in culinary management and oenology and has worked with organic and biodynamic producers in France, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada, was brought in to lead production. The line grew rapidly, selling over 500,000 bottles and reaching 100,000-plus customers within its first years.
The Region
Proxies operates from Toronto, Canada. Rather than sourcing from a single wine region, the project draws grape juices from vineyards across Europe, premium teas from producing regions around the world, and verjus from a winery in Ontario's Niagara Peninsula. The geographic ambition is part of the philosophy: just as a sommelier blends components from different sources to achieve a desired profile, the Proxies team builds each beverage from the best available raw materials regardless of origin.
Vineyards and Farming
Unlike traditional wine producers, Proxies does not farm its own vines. Grape juice components are sourced from established European vineyards selected for quality and character. Verjus--unfermented juice from unripe grapes, providing tartness and body without alcohol--is produced to Proxies' specifications at a partner winery in Niagara. The sourcing ethos mirrors that of a careful natural wine importer: provenance, quality of farming, and flavor integrity matter more than scale or price.
Winemaking
Each Proxy is built from the concept outward. Devin Campbell and the team begin with a flavor profile and food-pairing intention, then assemble a blend of grape juices, teas, spices, herbs, aromatic roots, and complex ferments to achieve the body, acidity, tannin structure, and aromatic complexity that the concept demands. The process is additive rather than subtractive--unlike dealcoholized wines, which remove alcohol from finished wine and often lose texture and depth in the process, Proxies are designed from scratch to hit their target without any extraction or removal steps.
The Wines
The Proxies lineup includes Crisp White, Big Red, Brut Rose, and a series of rotating seasonal releases. Each is formulated to pair with specific food contexts: the Big Red carries genuine tannin and body for red meat and hard cheese; the Crisp White offers bright acidity for seafood and salads; the Brut Rose brings effervescence and delicate fruit for aperitivo. The products are vegan, gluten-free, and low in sugar. Endorsements from chefs Sean Brock, Dominique Crenn, and sommelier Andre Mack speak to the product's standing in professional kitchens.
