Poco a Poco

Luke Bass, natural wine producer behind Poco a Poco, at his Porter-Bass estate near Guerneville, Sonoma County, California

The short version

Luke Bass of Porter-Bass Winery in Sonoma County makes Poco a Poco wines from certified organic and biodynamic Mendocino grapes -- slow, careful, minimal-intervention winemaking that lives up to the label's "little by little" philosophy.
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Poco a poco means little by little in Spanish, and that patient, incremental philosophy runs through every aspect of how Luke Bass farms grapes and makes wine in California's North Coast.

Backstory

Luke Bass studied economics at UC Santa Cruz before a winemaking internship at Flowers Winery that stretched into a two-and-a-half-year stint as cellar master under Greg LaFollette. He went on to work in South Africa, Chile, and at Tandem and Hirsch wineries in Sonoma County before establishing Porter-Bass Winery in Guerneville in 2001. The Poco a Poco label was created to bring the same values -- organic grapes, natural winemaking, honest pricing -- to a wider range while the Porter-Bass Estate Winery maintained its small-lot, estate-focused production. Porter-Bass has farmed biodynamically since 1999.

The Region

The Porter-Bass estate sits in the Russian River Valley, nine miles from the Pacific Ocean and just below the fog line in the hills above Guerneville. Most Poco a Poco grapes come from Mendocino County, a region Luke selected for its concentration of organically farmed vineyards, down-to-earth grower culture, and altitude-driven freshness. Both areas share a cool maritime influence that preserves acidity and aromatic complexity.

Vineyards & Farming

All Poco a Poco wines are made from organically farmed grapes; half the sourced fruit is biodynamically grown. Luke avoids the shortcuts of conventional viticulture: cover crops rebuild soil biology, compost from animals living near the vineyards returns organic matter, and weeds are removed by hand rather than by herbicide. The slow approach preserves the living systems that ultimately express themselves in the wine.

Winemaking

Grapes arrive at the winery and are processed in small batches. Fermentations use indigenous yeasts and bacteria. Wines age in neutral French oak barrels, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Only small amounts of sulfur are added, and no other additions are made. The philosophy is the same as the name: everything happens incrementally, carefully, without cutting corners.

The Wines

The Poco a Poco lineup includes Cabernet Sauvignon from Dry Creek Valley, Carignane from the Chapman Vineyard, Chardonnay from Mendocino, and a field blend-style red. Each wine carries the imprint of its specific vineyard source, bottled with a lightness of touch that lets place come through clearly. The range is approachable in price and serious in intent.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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