Mario Macciocca

Mario Macciocca smiling in his vineyard in the Scalambra hills of Lazio, Italy

The short version

Former footballer and Rome barman turned biodynamic farmer, Mario Macciocca grows Cesanese, Passerina, and Malvasia Puntinata on four hectares of volcanic limestone in the Scalambra hills of Lazio, making some of Italy's most compelling natural wines from a criminally underrated grape.
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Mario Macciocca's path to wine ran through a football pitch and a cocktail bar. A near-graduate in physics who spent years behind the stick at Rome's historic La Palma club, he eventually followed a different call — back to the countryside his grandfather Giuseppe had farmed since 1945. Today he works four hectares of biodynamic vines on the steep limestone slopes above Piglio in Lazio, where Cesanese has been the defining red grape for centuries.

The Region

Piglio sits in the foothills of the Apennines southeast of Rome, at the heart of the Cesanese del Piglio DOC — one of only two appellations in Lazio dedicated to this ancient variety. The Scalambra mountains form the backdrop, and the surrounding Simbruini chain creates a cooler, more continental microclimate than the Roman plain below. Limestone-marl soils define the terroir, bringing freshness and structure to wines from this still-emerging area.

Vineyards & Farming

Mario farms four hectares on the Pila Rocca and Carmine slopes of the Scalambra range, working biodynamically without synthetic inputs. The main variety is Cesanese — Lazio's great, largely forgotten red grape — supplemented by small amounts of Passerina and Malvasia Puntinata. The vineyard represents a continuation of his grandfather's work on this same land, now taken forward with a far more rigorous and intentional approach.

Winemaking

Mario ferments with native yeasts only, and ages his wines in either stainless steel tanks or wooden barrels depending on the cuvée. No commercial additives enter the cellar. Wines are unfiltered and unfined, with little to no added sulfites. The approach is resolutely hands-off — a direct reflection of what the site and vintage offer each year.

The Wines

The lineup is organized around the Monocromo series: Monocromo #1 (Passerina del Frusinate bianco), Monocromo #2 (Cesanese rosso), and Monocromo #3 (rosato). A more complex Civitella Rosso is aged in large barrels. Seven labels in total, all making a compelling case for Lazio's natural wine potential.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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