Manciaciumi

Dario Sciuto, natural wine producer, in his vineyard on Mount Etna in Sicily, Italy

The short version

Former master brewer Dario Sciuto and partners Giovanni Nicita and Leonardo Di Vincenzo recover old ungrafted vines on the south slope of Mount Etna under the Manciaciumi label, making minimal-intervention volcanic wines.
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The name Manciaciumi is a Sicilian dialect word meaning itch, describing someone too restless to stay still. It fits Dario Sciuto precisely. After careers in economics, Australian hospitality, brewing, and master brewing in Singapore, the pandemic stranded him in Catania and gave him the push he needed to start farming old vines on the mountain he had grown up beside.

Backstory

Dario Sciuto was born in San Giovanni la Punta, a municipality on the slopes of Etna near Catania. He holds an economics degree and gained experience in hospitality in Australia before enrolling at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy. He then worked at the celebrated craft brewery Birra del Borgo alongside Leonardo Di Vincenzo, eventually becoming a master brewer in Singapore. When Covid-19 closed borders in 2020, Sciuto returned to Catania. With his friend Giovanni Nicita, he took on management of an old vineyard on Etna's slopes. Manciaciumi was formally launched in 2022.

The Region

While most Etna wine attention focuses on the northern slope of the volcano, Manciaciumi operates on the less-known southern side, in the territory between Adrano and Trecastagni. The differences are real: the southern exposure produces a different flavour profile from the cooler, more celebrated north flank. Vineyards reach altitudes of up to 1,000 metres above sea level on the volcanic basalt soils for which Etna is internationally known.

Vineyards and Farming

Manciaciumi farms approximately 3.5 hectares of very old vines, some over 75 years old and planted on piede franco (ungrafted rootstock), a rarity that survives on the volcanic soils where phylloxera cannot thrive. Grape varieties include Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Alicante (Grenache), Carricante, and Minnella. Farming follows organic principles throughout.

Winemaking

Sciuto brings a brewer's discipline to cellar hygiene while maintaining maximum freedom in vinification. Fermentations are spontaneous, with no added yeasts or stabilisers. Vessels include stainless steel, wood, terracotta, and glass demijohns. Sulfur additions are avoided. The approach is, in Sciuto's words, pure grape juice with nothing in the way.

The Wines

Current releases include Malpelo, a blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Alicante (approximately 2,800 bottles per vintage), and Tormenta, a smaller-production blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio (around 500 bottles). Both are classified as Terre Siciliane IGT. Additional wines including Grasta and Bananae have been released as the project has grown.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

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