Les Cailloux du Paradis

Claude Courtois (center) and Etienne Courtois (left) at Les Cailloux du Paradis, Sologne, Loire Valley

The short version

Claude and Etienne Courtois farm over 40 grape varieties on flinty Sologne soils, making zero-input natural wines that have defined the Loire's radical edge since Claude began organic farming in the 1970s.
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Les Cailloux du Paradis sits in the Sologne, a landscape of woods, fields, and wetlands in the Loir-et-Cher that few people associate with viticulture. That is, in part, the point. Claude Courtois established his domain here in 1992 after decades of organic farming that stretches back to the 1970s and an earlier stint growing vines in Provence. He wanted a place where wine could be made on his terms, classified as Vin de France and free from appellation constraints.

Backstory

Claude is among the true pioneers of natural and organic agriculture in France, farming without synthetic chemicals long before the terms "natural wine" or "biodynamic" had commercial currency. Over the following decades his son Etienne gradually took over the main winemaking responsibilities, adding amphora and sandstone vessels to the cellar alongside the family's 30-year-old oak barrels and releasing a new generation of cuvées with tighter aging and brighter acidity. Claude continues to produce several single-variety wines, and the two generations work the domain together.

The Region

The estate is located in Soings-en-Sologne, about 35 kilometres from Blois, at the intersection of the Sologne forest country and the Touraine. The region is not a conventional wine landscape, which suits the Courtois family perfectly. The vineyards are interspersed with fruit trees, hedgerows, and grasslands, forming a self-sustaining mixed farm that is certified Nature et Progrès.

Vineyards and Farming

The estate covers 20 hectares of farmland, 6 of which are under vine, with soils described as flinty clay over ancient limestone, interspersed with quartz sand. The vine collection is exceptional: more than 40 varieties are planted, including Gamay, Côt (Malbec), Cabernet Franc, Pineau d'Aunis, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Romorantin, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Menu Pineau, Melon de Bourgogne, and Sémilon, among many others. Many vines are ungrafted. No pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, or synthetic chemicals are used at any stage.

Winemaking

Grapes are harvested by hand and fermented with ambient indigenous yeasts on a century-old manual press. Aging takes place in 30-year-old oak barrels alongside Etienne's newer additions of amphora and sandstone vessels, ranging from a few months for the lighter cuvées to four to ten years for the most structured wines. No fining, no filtration, and zero or minimal sulfur addition.

The Wines

The portfolio includes Quartz, Racines Blanc, Racines Rouge, Romorantin, Evidence, Plume d'Ange, Or'Norm, Cuvée des Etourneaux, L'Icaunais, Camille, and Secalaunia. Each wine reflects a single variety or a specific parcels, and each is a direct expression of the Sologne's quietly extraordinary terroir.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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