Lamoresca

Filippo Rizzo of Lamoresca standing in a field in central Sicily

The short version

Filippo Rizzo returned to his remote patch of central Sicily in the early 2000s after running a natural-wine restaurant in Belgium, and now farms 11 hectares of organic Frappato, Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese at 450 metres between Etna and Vittoria.
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Fifty square kilometres of grain fields separate Lamoresca from its nearest winery neighbour in central Sicily — which suits Filippo Rizzo perfectly. Isolation, he has shown, breeds originality: a tiny operation producing a handful of wines that carry the warm, sandy character of this forgotten corner of the island with complete conviction.

Backstory

Filippo Rizzo grew up in San Michele di Ganzaria in the Gigliotto district of central Sicily. He moved to Belgium, married his Belgian wife Nancy, and opened a restaurant in Brussels focused on traditional Sicilian cooking — one of the first venues outside Paris to champion natural wines. His wine sales representative at the time was Frank Cornelissen, then beginning his own work on Etna. When Filippo decided to return to Sicily to make wine himself, Cornelissen let him use his cellar for the first two vintages while Filippo completed his own cantina. Production began in the early 2000s.

The Region

Lamoresca sits where the provinces of Catania and Enna meet at the Elsa river, roughly midway between Etna and the Vittoria plains. The elevation of 450 metres delivers cooling nights that temper the intense Sicilian heat. Soils are compact sandstone mixed with calcium and iron-rich clay — a combination that imparts both structure and aromatic intensity to the wines. The estate later acquired Monte Stagno, a 100-metre hill across the Elsa for biodiversity conservation.

Vineyards and Farming

Lamoresca encompasses 11 hectares, with four dedicated to vines; the remainder is olives, wild herbs and native trees that Filippo maintains deliberately to counter the surrounding monoculture. All viticulture is certified organic: no chemicals, no pesticides, every vine worked by hand. Varieties are the indigenous southern Sicilian palette: Frappato, Nero d'Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Moscato, Vermentino and Catarratto. Filippo's son Simon has joined the team, managing communications while learning winemaking from his father.

Winemaking

Natural fermentation without temperature control, minimal intervention and sulfur used only when strictly necessary. Concrete ageing preserves freshness while softening the wines' sandstone tannic grip.

The Wines

Lamoresca Rosato blends Nero d'Avola, Frappato and Moscato into a vivid, saline pink. Nerocapitano is a concrete-aged Frappato of fragrant lightness. The Rosso combines Nero d'Avola and Frappato for deeper, spiced structure. A Bianco from Catarratto and Vermentino and the Elsa Rosso complete the small, tightly focused lineup.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

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