Vézelay may be Burgundy's least-heralded appellation, but Valentin Montanet is changing that, one bottle at a time. Working the same Kimmeridgian hillsides his parents pioneered nearly four decades ago, he makes Chardonnay of crystalline freshness and Pinot Noir of quiet depth — wines that taste unmistakably of this remote, pilgrimage town in the Yonne.
Backstory
Jean and Catherine Montanet founded Domaine de la Cadette in 1987, becoming among the first vignerons to take the Vézelay appellation seriously as a standalone identity. The estate adopted organic viticulture in 1999. Valentin joined his parents full-time in 2010 after completing engineering studies, a stint at a Swiss domaine and a trip through California wine country. He has since taken over winemaking responsibilities while La Soeur Cadette operates as the négoce label for wines produced from purchased organic grapes.
The Region
Saint-Père near Vézelay sits in the Yonne, south of Chablis and north of the Côte d'Or. The appellation's soils are Kimmeridgian limestone with clay — the same geological formation that gives Chablis its chalky precision — here expressed in a quieter, more rustic register. Cooler temperatures and higher rainfall than the Côte d'Or keep alcohol in check and acidity vivid.
Vineyards and Farming
The estate manages approximately 20 hectares planted primarily to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with small quantities of César and Melon de Bourgogne. All viticulture is certified organic, with no synthetic pesticides or herbicides. Fermentations rely entirely on naturally occurring indigenous yeasts.
Winemaking
Interventions in the cellar are kept to a strict minimum: no added yeasts, no chaptalization. Wines age on lees in stainless-steel tanks or old oak barrels depending on the cuvée. Sulfite additions are minimal and most wines leave the cellar unfiltered.
The Wines
The Bourgogne Vézelay La Châtelaine is a benchmark Chardonnay for the appellation: taut, mineral and freshly citrusy. Champs Cadet offers a supple, lightly earthy Pinot Noir. The Vézelay Les Angelots and the Galerne blanc round out a small, focused range that consistently punches above its appellation status.