La Cattiva

The seven-member La Cattiva collective standing outside their masseria in Sammichele di Bari, Puglia

Seven friends united by a shared obsession with fermentation decided in 2019 to stop making beer and start making wine, converting an abandoned dairy farm on Puglia's limestone plateau into Masseria La Cattiva -- which translates loosely as "the bad one," a nickname for the farm.

Backstory

The collective -- Leonardo, Alfredo, Paolo, Michele, Loreto, Manfredi, and Marianna -- had built technical expertise through years of home brewing before turning their attention to viticulture. In 2018 they began experimenting with natural fermentation; by 2019 they had committed fully to the project, reviving the estate and its six hectares of vines.

The Region

Sammichele di Bari sits on Puglia's inland limestone plateau at 280 meters above sea level, southeast of Bari. The calcareous soils and continental influence at altitude temper what might otherwise be overpowering southern heat, lending the wines a structure and freshness unusual for the heel of Italy.

Vineyards and Farming

All six hectares are farmed organically by hand. Only copper and sulfur are applied in the vineyard -- no synthetic treatments of any kind. The team harvests manually and handles everything in small batches, applying the precision of artisan brewing to viticulture.

Winemaking

Fermentation is 100 percent spontaneous with native yeasts. No sulfites are added at any stage, including at bottling. The approach draws directly on the collective's background in fermentation science, treating each vintage as an exercise in controlled wildness.

The Wines

La Cattiva produces a red from Primitivo, a white from Trebbiano, and a rosato from Primitivo. The wines are fresh and precise, more mineral and restrained than the appellation norm. The label "Running a Business" became a calling-card bottling, capturing the collective's tongue-in-cheek seriousness about their improbable project.

Italian Wine Regions

Valpolicella is versatility in a glass—cherry-bright Valpolicella, velvet Ripasso, and contemplative Amarone, all shaped by...
Etna is energy in a glass: Nerello Mascalese and Carricante channel lava flows, altitude, and...
Barolo is Nebbiolo at its most articulate—perfume and power shaped by Tortonian and Serravallian soils...

French Wine Regions

Savoie, nestled in the heart of the French Alps, represents one of France's most distinctive...
The Rhône Valley, in southeastern France, borders the Alps to the east and the Massif...
Bordeaux, located in southwestern France, is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and...

Natural Winemakers

Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.
A molecular biology graduate turned sparkling-wine cult figure, Michael Cruse founded Cruse Wine Co. in Petaluma to make fresh, serious, distinctly Californian wine, including old-vine Valdiguie.