Il Vinco

The three founders of Il Vinco at a natural wine fair

The short version

Three friends, two oil makers and a cattle breeder, set out in 2014 to make Montefiascone's overlooked native Canaiolo Nero into a wine of its own.
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Canaiolo Nero usually gets blended into Chianti and forgotten. On the volcanic slopes above Lake Bolsena, three friends decided it deserved top billing.

Backstory

Il Vinco was founded in 2014 by three local friends, Daniele Manoni, Marco Fucini and Nicola Brenciaglia, in Montefiascone, in the province of Viterbo in northern Lazio. Manoni and Brenciaglia are olive-oil producers and Fucini a cattle breeder, so the project grew out of a shared agricultural life rather than a wine dynasty. The name comes from the pliable willow branch, the vinco, traditionally used to tie vines to their stakes.

The Region

The vineyards sit on the southern slopes of the volcanic crater that holds Lake Bolsena, at between 250 and 450 meters, on volcanic soils. It is part of the new wave of natural growers revitalizing Lazio's interior.

Vineyards and Farming

The estate covers about five hectares, split roughly between two and a half hectares of old vines and the same again newly planted, with a clear mission to recover and champion the native Canaiolo Nero. The vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since 2017, using only small amounts of copper and sulfur.

Winemaking

After hand-harvesting, grapes are de-stemmed and gently pressed, then ferment spontaneously on their own yeasts in fiberglass tanks without temperature control, a quick fermentation of about five days. No other additions are used; the wines settle naturally for around four months in fiberglass, unfined and unfiltered, with minimal sulfur.

The Wines

The flagship is Canajo, a rare monovarietal Canaiolo Nero, joined by bottlings such as the Mistione blends and the Capannacce reds and whites. They are bright, fresh, drinkable wines that put a long-overlooked Lazio grape front and center.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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