High above the famous terraces of the Douro, on a wind-scoured plateau near Alijo, Tiago Sampaio is rewriting what the region's wines can taste like. Under the Uivo label he makes bright, energetic natural wines from old field blends, a long way from the area's powerful ports.
Backstory
Sampaio founded Folias de Baco, which translates as the follies of Bacchus, in 2007, working from his family's estate vineyards. His connection to the land runs deeper still: he grew up exploring his grandfather's farms and vineyards before studying agriculture in Portugal and completing a PhD in viticulture and enology in Oregon. The wines are released under the Uivo brand.
The Region
The vineyards sit in the Cima Corgo sub-region, on the high flatlands known as the planalto, near Alijo. Elevations run from 500 to 700 meters, well above the river, giving cooler conditions and the freshness that defines the wines.
Vineyards and Farming
Sampaio works about 20 hectares spread across eight plots within a five-kilometer radius, with the oldest vines around 90 years old. Granite features in some blocks. Farming is organic, with cover crops of legumes and barley and kaolin clay used for sun and pest protection. The estate is built around historical field blends of more than 30 indigenous varieties, including whites such as Rabigato, Arinto, Avesso, Gouveio and Alvarinho, a project focused on conserving these old plantings.
Winemaking
The cellar is low-intervention: native fermentations with no added yeast, no fining and no filtration. Sulfite levels are extremely low, around 15 to 20 ppm total for the whites. Vessels range across stainless steel, large chestnut vats, old barrels, cement tanks and clay talhas.
The Wines
Folias de Baco produces a wide spectrum of reds, whites, orange wines, sparkling and sweet wines. Pet-nat production began in 2014 and now accounts for roughly 40 percent of output, a signature of the estate's fresh, modern take on the Douro.
