Domaine des Miquettes

Paul Esteve and Chrystelle Vareille of Domaine des Miquettes tasting in their cellar with bottles and rock samples on the table

High on a plateau above Tournon, Paul Esteve and Chrystelle Vareille make singular northern Rhone wines in a cellar of buried clay jars rather than the region's usual oak.

Backstory

The couple created Domaine des Miquettes in 2003 in the village of Cheminas, on the high ground above Tournon and Secheras in the southern part of the Saint-Joseph appellation. Paul Esteve trained under two major figures of natural winemaking in the northern Rhone, Rene-Jean Dard and Francois Ribo, before setting out on his own.

The Region

The estate lies in the Saint-Joseph appellation of the northern Rhone, on terraced hillsides of granite and old stone walls. From the start the couple farmed without chemical inputs.

Vineyards and Farming

The vineyard was gradually built up to around six hectares, planted with Syrah for the reds and Marsanne and Viognier for the whites. In 2020 they took the decision to concentrate on their best plots and reduced the estate to about 2.5 hectares, prioritising quality over volume.

Winemaking

The defining feature is the cellar of buried terracotta jars, Spanish tinajas similar to Georgian qvevri, in which white, orange and red wines are macerated, vinified and matured. They built a dedicated chai for some twenty-six buried jars, and use them for their amphora cuvees, including the orange and red wines they call Madloba, the Georgian word for thank you.

The Wines

The range covers taut, silky reds from Syrah and textured, energetic whites and orange wines, all aiming for frank fruit and freshness without additives.

More articles

Mario Andrion, natural wine producer at Castello di Verduno, in Verduno in Italy's Barolo zone of Piedmont
A historic Verduno estate run by Franco Bianco and Gabriella Burlotto, championing the rare Pelaverga grape alongside traditional Barolo and Barbaresco.
Rhône Valley French wine regions blog, landscape photo from above, natural wine, primal wine - primalwine.com
The Rhône Valley, in southeastern France, borders the Alps to the east and the Massif Central to the west. The Rhône Valley is renowned for its incredibly expressive wines and hearty cuisine. In particular, the region's wines, influenced by its...

Italian Wine Regions

Pencil color illustration of Valpolicella - primalwine.com
Valpolicella is versatility in a glass—cherry-bright Valpolicella, velvet Ripasso, and contemplative Amarone, all shaped by...
Pencil color illustration of Mount Etna - primalwine.com
Etna is energy in a glass: Nerello Mascalese and Carricante channel lava flows, altitude, and...
Barolo: A Terroir-Driven Guide to Nebbiolo
Barolo is Nebbiolo at its most articulate—perfume and power shaped by Tortonian and Serravallian soils...

French Wine Regions

Savoie Wine Region - primalwine.com
Savoie, nestled in the heart of the French Alps, represents one of France's most distinctive...
Rhône Valley French wine regions blog, landscape photo from above, natural wine, primal wine - primalwine.com
The Rhône Valley, in southeastern France, borders the Alps to the east and the Massif...
Bordeaux French wine regions blog, photo of a Bordeaux alley and monuments, natural wine, primal wine - primalwine.com
Bordeaux, located in southwestern France, is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and...

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.