Domaine de la Voute des Crozes

Nicole Chanrion and Romain Chanrion of Domaine de la Voute des Crozes standing in their vineyard on Mont Brouilly

The short version

An eight-generation family estate on Mont Brouilly where Nicole Chanrion, La Patronne de la Cote, has made traditional whole-cluster Cote-de-Brouilly since 1988.
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On the volcanic slopes of Mont Brouilly, Nicole Chanrion has spent decades quietly making some of the most consistent and characterful Cote-de-Brouilly in the Beaujolais.

Backstory

The domaine has been a family estate in Cercie, on the flanks of Mont Brouilly, for more than eight generations, with roots traced to 1861. Nicole Chanrion grew up working the vines alongside her father and trained at the viticultural school in Beaune before a short internship in the Napa Valley. She took over the estate in 1988, at a time when convention still largely kept women out of the cellar, and worked every stage herself, from pruning and tractor work to winemaking and bottling. In 2000 she became president of the Cote-de-Brouilly appellation, earning the affectionate title La Patronne de la Cote. She is now working with the next generation, Romain Chanrion.

The Region

Cote-de-Brouilly is one of the ten Beaujolais crus, occupying the steep mid-slopes of Mont Brouilly. The estate's vines grow on volcanic schist and diorite soils on east and northeast-facing slopes.

Vineyards and Farming

The domaine farms around 7.5 hectares of Gamay, including parcels of vines over a century old, planted at the high densities of ten to twelve thousand vines per hectare typical of the best Beaujolais sites.

Winemaking

The wine is made in the traditional Beaujolais manner: hand-harvested, fermented whole-cluster with natural yeasts via carbonic maceration over fifteen to twenty days in stainless steel, then aged at least nine months in large oak foudres and bottled unfiltered. The result is a Gamay of genuine depth, structure and consistency that ages well beyond most of its peers.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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