Costador

Joan Franquet, natural wine producer of Costador, in his cellar in Conca de Barbera, Catalonia, Spain

The short version

From a single Catalan mountain, Joan Franquet rescues vines up to 110 years old and ferments nearly extinct local grapes in clay amphorae under his Metamorphika label.
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Costador Terroirs Mediterranis is the work of Joan Franquet, who grew up in an olive oil family near Priorat and worked alongside his father on the farm from a young age. He trained as a sommelier in 2009 before turning to the Conca de Barbera, where his partner is from, to build an estate devoted to old, almost forgotten Catalan vines.

The Region

The estate lies in the Conca de Barbera in central Catalonia, near Tarragona and not far from Barcelona, on a singular mountain. The vines sit high, between roughly 400 and 800 meters of altitude, where cool air helps preserve freshness.

Vineyards & Farming

Franquet looks after old vineyards, most of them between 60 and 110 years old, planted with indigenous and sometimes nearly extinct varieties such as Sumoll, Xarel.lo, Trepat, Garnatxa, and Chenin Blanc. The land is cultivated on organic principles, with most vineyards certified, and he also draws on biodynamic and minimal-intervention practice.

Winemaking

Fermentation always starts spontaneously with wild, native yeasts. Franquet ferments and ages across clay amphorae, several-use old oak barrels, and stainless steel, leaning heavily on amphorae for his Metamorphika range. The aim is to let these rare grapes and the mountain terroir come through with as little intervention as possible.

The Wines

The amphora-driven Metamorphika bottlings, made from varietal lots of Sumoll, Trepat, Garnatxa, Xarel.lo, and Chenin Blanc, are the heart of the range, alongside cuvees such as La Fassina and Presa Romana, all expressions of high-altitude Catalan vines worked by hand.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

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