Colline de l'Hirondelle

Didier Ferrier and Jennifer Buck of Colline de l'Hirondelle in the Corbieres

The short version

A Franco-American couple makes organic Corbieres wines on a bird-refuge hillside in the Aude, including a Grenache-Mourvedre bottled with no added sulfites.
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On the northern slope of the Alaric mountain in the Aude, a winemaker from the village and his California-born partner have built a human-sized organic farm whose name means "hill of the swallow."

Backstory

Colline de l'Hirondelle is the project of Didier Ferrier, who comes from a winemaking family in Douzens near Carcassonne, and Jennifer Buck, a Berkeley native who studied French literature. The couple made their first wines in 2008 and began selling them in 2010, having converted part of an old barn into a winery. They started with 4 hectares from Didier's father, received another 2.5 hectares as a wedding gift, and planted a further 1.5 hectares.

The Region

The estate lies in the village of Douzens, in the Corbieres of Languedoc, between Narbonne and Carcassonne. Although the vineyards fall within the Corbieres AOP, the couple often bottles outside the appellation, in part because they work with rare varieties such as Chenancon that the appellation does not permit.

Vineyards and Farming

Farming has been organic from the very start, and the property is a declared bird refuge. A treasured one-acre plot, the Joupatiere, was planted at the end of the nineteenth century and escaped phylloxera. It is a field blend of thirteen identified varieties, including Carignan, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Terret, and old curiosities like Olivette blanche and Chasselas dore.

Winemaking

Reds are hand-harvested and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The natural Grenache-Mourvedre cuvee is co-fermented and bottled with no added sulfites. Wines rest in the cool stone coach house and are released when they are ready to drink.

The Wines

The range includes the A la Volee Languedoc bottling alongside cuvees such as Cocolico and L'Oiseau, all rooted in the old vines and biodiversity of the Alaric hillside.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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