High on a north-facing amphitheatre a few miles inland from Cassis, Château de Roquefort makes Provence rosé and red that taste of a specific place rather than a marketing brief. The estate sits at roughly 1,300 feet, cooled by altitude and sea air, on stony clay and limestone soils.
Backstory
The property entered the de Villeneuve family in 1812, and the cellar dates to the 1730s. Raimond de Villeneuve took the reins in 1995 after an earlier career that included a stint as a futures trader in Paris. Raised partly in Munich and schooled in a Steiner-inspired Waldorf education, he brought a biodynamic sensibility to the vines. He led the domaine until 2022, when it was sold to Cédric and Violaine Menet, with his protégée Margaux Gentile now responsible for the wines.
The Region
Roquefort lies at Roquefort-la-Bédoule in the Côtes de Provence appellation, at the foot of the Sainte-Baume massif and close to the Cassis and Bandol appellations. The vineyards form a north-facing bowl, an unusual exposure that helps preserve freshness in a warm Mediterranean climate.
Vineyards and Farming
The estate covers about 25 hectares of vines on clay-limestone soils at 350 to 400 meters of altitude. Farming has been certified organic since 2014, with biodynamic methods practiced for two decades. Terraces destroyed by events such as the catastrophic 2012 hailstorm were rebuilt with hand-grafted cuttings sourced from across Provence, Corsica and the Rhône. Plantings include the traditional Provençal varieties Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Clairette, Rolle (Vermentino) and Ugni Blanc.
The Wines
The wines aim for purity with minimal intervention, the belief being that the best wines come from as little human meddling as possible. The rosé Corail is the calling card, alongside the lighter red Gueule de Loup and a range of whites. Most bottlings are priced to drink, not to admire.
