Château de Béru

Winemaker Athénaïs de Béru tasting a glass of white wine outdoors at Château de Béru

The short version

After leaving Parisian finance, Athénaïs de Béru turned her family's 400-year-old Chablis estate fully biodynamic, with a walled monopole at its heart.
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When the tenant farming her family's Chablis vines decided to retire, Athénaïs de Béru left a finance career in Paris within days and went home. The result is one of Chablis's most distinctive and uncompromising biodynamic estates.

Backstory

Château de Béru has belonged to the Béru family for more than 400 years, set on the slopes near the Chablis Grand Cru foothills. In the early 2000s Athénaïs returned to the village of her childhood and gradually took over the roughly 15-hectare estate.

The Region

The domaine lies in Chablis, in the far north of Burgundy, where Chardonnay is shaped by cool climate and Kimmeridgian limestone. At its centre is the Clos Béru, a five-hectare monopole enclosed by a historic wall dating to the thirteenth century.

Vineyards and Farming

Athénaïs converted the whole estate first to organics and then biodynamics. Since 2010 every plot has been organic and fully certified biodynamic, with preparations applied according to the cosmic calendar. Working biodynamically with small yields is still uncommon in Chablis, making her a genuine innovator.

Winemaking

All the grapes are handpicked and fermented with indigenous yeasts, then bottled without fining or filtration. The approach seeks ripeness and terroir expression rather than the leaner template many associate with the region.

The Wines

She produces mainly five cuvées of Chablis, including the Premier Cru Vaucoupin, the village Terroirs de Béru and the standout Clos Béru monopole. They are vibrant, textural and unmistakably hers.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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