Bonavita

Bonavita — natural wine producer

The short version

From 2.5 hectares of clay and limestone above the Strait of Messina, Giovanni Scarfone makes some of the most sought-after wine in Sicily's tiny Faro DOC.
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Faro is one of Sicily's oldest DOCs and also one of its smallest, with only a handful of producers working its steep coastal hills. Giovanni Scarfone farms just 2.5 hectares here, yet his name is spoken alongside the island's finest.

Backstory

Scarfone's family has cultivated vines in the hills above Messina for more than a century. After studying agricultural science at the University of Bologna, Giovanni returned to Sicily in 2004 to revive the family land, releasing his first commercial Bonavita vintage in 2006. He began with a single hectare and patiently expanded the estate to 2.5 hectares over the following years, never chasing scale.

The Region

Faro, established as a DOC in 1976, sits on the northeastern tip of Sicily, where the island nearly touches the mainland. Bonavita's parcels at Faro Superiore and Curcuraci rise on steep hills overlooking the Strait of Messina, at roughly 250 to 300 meters above sea level, cooled by sea breezes that funnel through the strait.

Vineyards & Farming

The vineyards sit on white soils rich in clay and limestone that stay cool and retain moisture, an asset in the Sicilian heat. Only indigenous grapes are grown: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, and Nocera. Farming is organic, with no pesticides or additives, only low doses of copper and sulfur against disease, and green manure and legumes to feed the soil. Giovanni works the land by hand with his wife and father, keeping yields deliberately low to concentrate the fruit.

Winemaking

Scarfone holds that terroir accounts for the overwhelming share of a wine's character, so cellar work stays minimal and hands-off. The Faro is aged a minimum of three years in old oak before release, a long elevage that softens the wine's structure while letting its perfume develop.

The Wines

Production is tiny, around 600 cases a year. The flagship Faro blends the three native grapes into a perfumed, ruby-hued red with aromas of cherry and raspberry, often compared to fine Nerello-based wines from Etna. A structured Rosato, made with a short skin maceration, completes the range.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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