Ayunta

Ayunta — natural wine producer

The short version

Told to save a dying vineyard, Filippo Mangione built an estate of ancient, ungrafted Etna vines and now bottles Nerello Mascalese in red, white, rose and fizz.
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When Filippo Mangione went to look at an abandoned vineyard in Calderara Sottana, the owner told him simply: take it, don't let this vineyard die. He took it, and Ayunta was born.

Backstory

Mangione founded Ayunta in 2011 after acquiring that neglected plot on the northern slope of Mount Etna. He has since assembled several parcels in some of the zone's most prized contrade around Randazzo, building a tiny estate around extraordinarily old vines.

The Region

Etna is an active volcano in northeastern Sicily and one of Italy's most exciting wine regions, often called the Burgundy of the south for the way its lava flows and elevations splinter into distinct crus. The northern slope around Randazzo is its most celebrated sector for red wine.

Vineyards & Farming

The estate covers about 2.8 hectares across multiple parcels, including holdings in the Calderara Sottana contrada, at roughly 600 to 700 metres on volcanic soils of lapilli and ash known locally as ripiddu. Many vines are 50 to 100 years old or more, planted in the early 1900s, on their own ungrafted roots. Mangione farms organically, uses no chemicals, and works by hand or with small machinery given the jumble of varieties and vine ages. Yields are low, around 40 hectolitres per hectare in good years.

Winemaking

Plantings are led by Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, interplanted with the whites Carricante, Catarratto and the near-extinct Minnella Bianca and Minnella Nera. Reds ferment spontaneously in open-top concrete vats for about three weeks and age in large neutral barrels; whites ferment in stainless steel and age in cement. No additives are used during elevage.

The Wines

Mangione's signature is showing Nerello Mascalese in many guises, including red, a rare white pressing, rosato and ancestral-method sparkling, alongside Etna Bianco Piante Sparse and Etna Rosso bottlings such as Navigable and the cru Calderara Sottana.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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