Abbia Nova

Abbia Nova - natural wine producer profile | Primal Wine illustration

The short version

Two cousins from farming families are reviving Cesanese and forgotten native grapes on Lazio hills that once hosted Roman emperors and a wandering medieval saint.
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The hills around Piglio have grown vines since Roman times. Two cousins from humble farming families are working that history into the present, reviving Cesanese del Piglio and a handful of grapes almost no one else still plants.

Backstory

Abbia Nova is run by cousins Daniele and Pierluca Proietti in the historic town of Piglio, south of Rome in Lazio. The land carries deep history: it is said to have hosted Bernard of Clairvaux on his monastic journey and to have served as a retreat for the Roman emperors Nerva and Trajan, whose villas left archaeological traces among the vines.

The Region

Piglio lies in the hills of Lazio, a landscape of volcanic soils, rolling slopes, and varied microclimates. Cesanese d'Affile has been the dominant grape here for more than 400 years, anchoring the Cesanese del Piglio DOCG.

Vineyards & Farming

The estate covers 7 hectares divided into small parcels on a patchwork of volcanic, clay, sandy, limestone, and sandstone soils. Alongside Cesanese, the cousins are reviving ancient local varieties including Passerina, Bellone, Ottonese, Nostrano, and Fosco Peloso. Farming is organic with biodynamic principles, drawing also on Fukuoka's natural method and homeopathy, and they have replaced copper and sulphur sprays with natural resistance activators.

Winemaking

Fermentations are spontaneous, with indigenous yeasts. The wines see a mix of vessels: steel, concrete, amphora, and glass demijohns. Added sulfites are kept low, typically 10 to 30 mg/L, and the wines are neither fined nor filtered.

The Wines

Abbia Nova produces around eight cuvees, including the Senza Vandalismi Cesanese del Piglio and a Senza Vandalismi Passerina, plus bottlings such as Baciami Ancora, Cercia, Fontana, Berlame, and San Giovanni.

Natural Winemakers

Maria and Sepp Muster, natural wine producers from Leutschach in Southern Styria, Austria, standing with the next generation of the family
Maria and Sepp Muster farm ten hectares of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards above Leutschach in Southern Styria, crafting textural, mineral whites from the region's distinctive Opok marl soil.
Possa, natural wine producer in Cinque Terre, Liguria, Italy
Heydi Bonanini practices heroic viticulture on terraced cliffs above Riomaggiore, producing Cinque Terre whites and the legendary Sciacchetra from rescued indigenous varieties.
Weingut Niklas, natural wine producer, in his vineyard in Alto Adige, Italy
Weingut Niklas is a family-run Alto Adige estate in Kaltern where Dieter Solva farms 7 hectares of calcareous mountain soils to produce precise, aromatic whites and structured Lagrein reds that have carried the family name for over 50 years.

What is what?

Is natural wine the same as organic? What is biodynamic, then? Vegan? Sure. Let's explore some of these concepts together.

What are you drinking tonight?

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